Thursday, September 16, 2004

June 24 - Dartsedo (Kanding) to Trango (Luhuo)

We had another long day ahead of us travelling to Luhuo. I was already tired from the previous day's 8 hour trip, and it looked like we were in for another long day. The plan was to make it all the way to Kandze (Garze,) but the drive was just too long so we stopped in Luhuo.

I was surprised at how cold it was when we got up in the morning. The rain had stopped, the sky was clear and we could see our frosty breath as we waited outside the hotel to find a restaurant for breakfast. We chatted outside the hotel with two other Westerners who were traveling by bus. As it turned out they were two the only a small handful of Westerners that we would see on the entire trip. We found a tiny restaurant and had an excellent breakfast of sweet hot soy milk, sweet egg soup and sweet deep-fried dough (my kind of breakfast.)

As we resumed our trip we began to see the beautiful variety of landscape and architecture that characterizes the Tibetan countryside. the valleys had become wider now and the road almost always followed a river. The mountains, worn with age, were rounded and covered in an emerald green velvet carpet. Summer wildflowers of yellow, red, blue and white shimmered on the lush grass.

In the morning we saw a lot of tall stone houses. They were usually three stories and more or less a square shape with the top being slightly narrower than the bottom. The top floor always had a chunk missing, either on the corner or the middle, giving it a gap toothed look. This open area seemed to give people a place to hang laundry and perform other outdoor tasks. The bottom floor was often the "barn" where animals were kept. In general, these houses were enormous and spread widely apart, housing several generations of family members, .

The construction was of colored stone or brick with colorful window panes (red, yellow and blue) framed by a section of whitewashed brick. The lintels above the windows were painted with beautiful carved geometric designs. After lunch, we saw more houses in a low horizontal ranch-style, often made both of stone and long red painted logs.

As we drove on, the roads began to get rougher and the ride was often quite bumpy, creating a constant need to reposition the luggage in the back. It was constantly bouncing loose and bumping us on the head or landing in the backseat. As the trip progressed we became quite adept at strategically packing so that we had fewer of these problems.

There were often long stretches of road with huge trees on either side whose leafy tops formed long green archways filtering the sun and cooling the air. Depending on the time of day and the altitude we experienced quite remarkable changes in temperature. The morning cold gave way to a beautiful dry heat which gradually cooled again as we ascended to the high mountain passes (sometimes covered in snow.)

It becomes quite difficult to remember which passes we went over on what day. I believe that it was on this day when we ascended one of the more dramatic snow covered ones. The hightest point is always marked by multi-coloured prayer flages. At that spot, we all got out of the car to take pictures and shout "Ki ki, So so, Lha Gyalo" ("Ki ki, So so, Victory to the gods), the traditional cry that is sent up when once reaches the apex of the pass.

Charlene Reader (on the right in this picture) was quickly dubbed "the reference librarian" by the group in our car. She had brought several good guidebooks and maps and was always able to tell us the elevations of the passes we crossed and the towns where we stayed.

In the late afternoon the roads became quite rough (Rinpoche says never to say that a road is "bad" because roads are constructed from the very difficult labor of human hands) and the cold rain began again. It was getting dark by the time we reached Luhuo so we found a somewhat rougher but still decent hotel where we stayed the night. This was the first hotel whose bathrooms only offered squat toilets, but the water was hot so we could have refreshing showers before dropping exhausted into bed.

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Blogger Albanian Diversity said...

All civilized countries should denounce China's rule in Tibet. Tibetans have been repressed for decades by communist Chinese rulers. They have not disrespected just Dalai Lama with their accusations; Chinese rulers disrespected all of millions of us who love & respect Dalai Lama's contribute in society, (showing people how to be tolerant & understanding, focusing on the positive & loving each-other).
Tibet should be independent! The only answer to solve that crisis

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Anonymous Anonymous said...

Gain and loss of 14th Dalai Lama

I have heard such a thing in Lhasa: a foreign tourist visited an old Tibetan woman and asked her, "China Communist Party and Dalai Lama, who do you support? " The old Tibetan woman said,"Although Dalai is our religious leader, we support who lead us a better life.The answer is obvious.
Dalai left his hometown in 1959 and has spent 50 years abroad,from a young man full of ambition into an old man.
Dalai's autobiography published in the 1990s elaborate his early life in China, especially in Tibet. I believe that the original color in his life is the most impressive memory in his mind, an indelible mark to him.
In 1959,he went to India,the cradle of Buddhism,abandoning his throne in Potala Palace and his so-called "my people".
The teleplay "Pilgrimage to the West" has such an scenario: "Rabbi Hsuan Zang left his home and went to India to learn Triple Gem religiously ".Prior to departure, Emperor Taizong of Tang Dynasty put the loess into the wine in person and ask Hsuan Zang to drink.Hsuan Zang
is confused and asked why. Emperor Taizong said,"Home's loess is more valuable than other country's gold".
In history,Hsuan Zang's West Journey may be not so sensational, but Hsuan Zang came back to his home indeed. After 18 years, for the belief and welfare of his believers, he came back to his home which he missed day and nights.
But Dalai in India doesn't want to come back to his home. For the fifty years, especially afer 1989, he has won a lot of honors abroad,from "Human Rights Defender" to "Nobel Peace Prize";He wrote many buddhist bookes,publicize the power of buddha according to his own understanding and addressed in many fisrt tier university in English.Westerners call him
spirit leader.Each time to a place, applauses and flowers accompanies him. And is that what he really need?
It is a pity that he miss even more. He missed Tibetans arousal and forge ahead,missed the development of Tibet and missed the propersity and progress of China.For fifty years,he hasn't been to China and always conjecture the image of modern Tibet through his original cognition and try to influence the future of Tibet.
The world is fair, you cannot have your cake and eat it.From the moment Dalai left his home, he has lost the qualification and basic condition as an Chinese. No honor can compesate it.

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